ForgotPassword?
Sign Up
Search this Topic:
Forum Jump
Posts: 1313
Nov 12 15 1:57 PM
LiteHawk Canada
Interact
Posts: 87
Nov 21 15 5:05 AM
Nov 21 15 5:34 PM
Belial wrote:Awesome ! Those program cards work great ! I personally have all my setting on max running a 45amp ESC . You will need to get used to how much power it has , With after market tires they have lots of grip, If you punch from a dead stop she will flip over ! Have fun !
Posts: 1979
Nov 21 15 6:34 PM
Posts: 85
Nov 23 15 11:15 AM
Nov 30 15 3:50 PM
fullmetalsam wrote:Great work !!!! It's also great to know that everything worked together I'd be very very curious to see a video of your blast now :P
Dec 1 15 3:01 PM
Silok wrote:EDIT: Brute convertion is not a good idea, not a good idea at all. 1 run and the body shell is completly broken with1 body post who broke in half (i will post some picture soon). 1 Flip over and no more beautiful truck. Well lets back to the buggy look. I must say tough for 20$ for a so fragile body shell, that a bit expensive guy...
Dec 1 15 4:45 PM
fullmetalsam wrote:Silok wrote: EDIT: Brute convertion is not a good idea, not a good idea at all. 1 run and the body shell is completly broken with1 body post who broke in half (i will post some picture soon). 1 Flip over and no more beautiful truck. Well lets back to the buggy look. I must say tough for 20$ for a so fragile body shell, that a bit expensive guy... All RC shells are somewhat fragile - buggies are something else, the shell usually follow closely the lines of the chassis, which keeps damage to a minimum. But if you're moving to monster truck type bodies, you don't have to do much for it to break... a bad crash on the shell and it's done for. I always reinforce all my shell with a layer of cheap ductape on the inside. There's another method out there involving shoegoo and drywall tape (there's a gazilion youtube videos on this)... but it's too messy and smelly for me. If you want to have a monster truck look, you could always look at the Stampede 2wd (traxxas) body (you can have a look in my Gobi Thread to see how it looks). You'll have a millions options from Traxxas and other after-market bodies from companies like Proline or JConcepts... you can pick them up on sale on Amazon.ca for under 20$. I don't think they'll be thicker than the one from the Brute... but they have less sharp/square corners, which does help in distributing impacts in these kind of crashes. But if you go that route - make sure you reinforce it a bit. I've also started "body washers" (big plastic washer) and it does help in distributing impacts around the hole where the body post comes through. You can also look at aluminum body post (look for rustler / stampede ones - very cheap on amazon again) - but without an aluminum body mount system, you're more likely to break the mount or the shock tower than the the actual body post on a crash... which would cost more to replace.
Silok wrote: EDIT: Brute convertion is not a good idea, not a good idea at all. 1 run and the body shell is completly broken with1 body post who broke in half (i will post some picture soon). 1 Flip over and no more beautiful truck. Well lets back to the buggy look. I must say tough for 20$ for a so fragile body shell, that a bit expensive guy...
Dec 2 15 1:26 AM
Dec 4 15 2:28 AM
Belial wrote:I painted a $50 body, Spent $20 on paint and about hour into masking and painting . It looked sweet for one race ...Races are 6 mins...... It happens we kill them quick sometimes. To make mine tough I use shoe goo and fibreglass mesh. Thin layer of shoe goo then stick the mesh down,then more shoe goo. Use very sharp scissors when cutting the mesh. Final result is STRENGTH, little extra weight but seems worth it to me . -B
Posts: 1748
Dec 5 15 2:59 AM
профессор
Dec 9 15 4:44 PM
Hysteresis wrote:Guys. Try Bondic. Amazing product for plastic repair / reconstruction. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk
Dec 9 15 5:40 PM
Dec 10 15 12:39 AM
fullmetalsam wrote:Hummm... I never had problem with steering breaking. If you tell us in which kind of situation this is actually breaking... then we might be able to figure out the most probable cause. It could be binding somewhere and the servo is stronger than the original and at some point, it just break. Or it could be that you're hitting stuff way harder (more speed, more force on impact) and it pushed the steering assembly into something it's not suppose to hit (within the car) and breaks it off. But regardless of how it happens... I'm thinking it might be easy enough to fix - you need something stronger there. You could buy a small aluminum rod and bash it into the shape of a small plate, then drill holes based on the current piece that's always breaking. Then tap the holes so the screw for the turnbuckle catch or just use a nut (I think there's enough place in there to add a 3mm nut).
Dec 10 15 4:05 AM
Dec 10 15 11:06 AM
Dec 10 15 9:01 PM
fullmetalsam wrote:What is that plastic exactly ??? I'm curious and I could think about a million I could use that for RC and other stuff Is it like "Green Stuff" (epoxy type potty) ??? I dabbled in miniature a loooooooonng time ago
Dec 10 15 9:36 PM
Dec 10 15 10:31 PM
Hysteresis wrote:For repairs, Bondic is the bomb! Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk
Dec 12 15 7:34 PM
Share This